The Story

This 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger is a compact brawler built to carve up the streets or hunt Fords and Chevys the drag strip. This one has evidence that it was destined for speed. Remnants of a roll cage and DIY mini-tubbed rear wheel wells scream quarter-mile runs, whether it ever saw a starting line christmas tree or was just prepped for glory. We can picture it now with wide slicks stuffed under those tubs, V8 roaring, ready to launch. Its history is a mystery locked in steel, but the setup hints at a life spent chasing checkered flags or at least planning to.

This Dart landed with the seller as a project brimming with potential. Hailing from an era when horsepower ruled, it’s a canvas for someone who wants to finish what was started. The mini-tubs and cage remnants are a head start for a drag build, but it could just as easily become a street screamer with some TLC. Whatever its past, this Swinger’s future is wide open, ready for a gearhead with the vision to make it lay down some rubber once again.

The Dart has a clean CA title in the previous owners name. CA registration will require the payment of back fees, which are about $800. There is a reserve price that will need to be met in order for it to sell.

What You Get

This Dart rocks a non-original 318ci V8, reportedly rebuilt with low miles. An endoscope peek shows clean pistons and cross hatch on the cylinder walls. It turns over smoothly by hand with the crank bolt. It’s topped with an Edelbrock Performer intake and a 750cfm Edelbrock/Weber carburetor for serious breathing. The 727 Torqueflite automatic transmission, also reportedly in working order, pairs with an 8 3/4-inch rear axle sporting 3.25 gears and an unknown positraction setup. The rear differential feels great, with good lash and smooth spins. Included are stainless steel headers in great shape, ready to bolt on for that classic Mopar rumble. Cragar Street Star 15” steel mags and front disc brakes (with rear drums) round out the package.

The body of this Dart is a standout with its lack of rust and some dents that can be massaged out. The rear end wears factory-original paint, never taken apart, with perfect factory gaps and bumper alignment. The passenger door and fender are dent-free, while also appearing with original paint. Surface rust from a removed vinyl top is minimal, with light pitting in spots and no rot-through on the rear window or elsewhere. The driver’s quarter has a crease in the lower rear, and the driver’s door sports three or four small dents. The driver’s fender, not appearing original to the car, is in good shape, while the original front bumper and grille are mounted. New AMD inner fenderwells keep things fresh. The firewall is very clean. All glass, including the windshield, are original and crack-free. The frame is rust-free, and doors open and close with factory feel. A new fuel tank is included, though the car was last set up with a fuel cell (the factory fill tube hole was welded shut but can be reopened). Subframe connectors run through the interior, solidly welded to the roll cage remnants in the trunk.

Inside, you’ve got a functional starting point. The floors are nearly pristine, with some minor surface rust in a few spots. The original steering wheel, column, and dash are in place, joined by an aftermarket oil pressure gauge under the dash. Front door panels are installed and in great condition, and the rear upper metal trim, painted green, is included. The seats, not the original dark green vinyl, are non-original but have great frames. The trunk is solid with original paint, and the package tray shows cuts from the roll cage setup. A roll cage was partially removed, leaving mounting plates on the floors and remnants in the trunk, tied to the subframe connectors.

What You Need

The drivetrain is close but needs finishing touches. The 318 needs all of its plumbing and electrical connections, including an ignition coil and plug wires. The front of the motor needs pulleys, a fan, and a radiator. The fuel pump will undoubtedly need to be replaced. The carb was in the trunk and would need to be rebuilt if it is retained. You’ll have a head start on the exhaust with the stainless steel headers that are included. The driveshaft is missing, so you’ll need one to get rolling. The front suspension lacks springs, shocks, and a sway bar, and the rear leaf springs should be replaced with new shocks added. The rear drum brakes need everything except the drums themselves to be road-ready.

The body’s got potential but plenty of to-dos. The hood, cut for a scoop, has damage on the front driver’s corner and a bend on the driver’s side rear. The grille has a couple of broken tabs but mounts fine. You’re missing the driver’s side headlight bucket and both turn signal lenses. The driver’s fender extension is a replacement that needs paint to match, while the passenger side extension seems original. The DIY mini-tubbing isn’t fully finished, so expect some fabrication to complete it. The welded fuel fill hole could be reopened if you opt for the included factory style tank.

The interior needs love to shine. The headliner, likely original, is split and falling. The dash is cracked, and the rear lower door panels are missing. The package tray, cut for the roll cage, may need repair or replacement. You’ll also need to source a new carpet kit if desired. The wiring hasn’t been tested, so you will need to go through it all. A factory wire harness is included with the sale, as well as a host of other fasteners and spare parts.